MBFW Moments: #1

Steven Tibaudo, Myself, Lauren Howanitz

Steven Tibaudo, Myself, Lauren Howanitz at the Tracy Reese Official After Party

MBFW has been long and over (thankfully), but luckily I have various images scattered around the web from the exhausting week. I have come to the realization that I have now become one of those people in the industry that just complain about FW. It’s what we do. I’m grumpy half of the week from sucking in my gut, consuming what free products there are in Lincoln Center, wearing uncomfortable pair of shoes I had on for the day, and trying to recover from last night’s open bar. Why we do these crazy things, we will never know. Okay, we’re all attention-seeking whores and FW is the one circus that has spawned this madness.

Louis Vuitton: Marc Bids Adieu

Elevator, clock, and carousel flashback.

Elevator and clock flashback.

In an all black, best-of-the-best showpiece moments of Louis Vuitton, Marc presented his final runway show for the luxury brand for the SS 2014 season. I respect his work, but will be glad to see his focus shifted solely on his namesake. I think he went out with a bang and can’t wait to see what the future holds.

Intricate, mournful runway at LVMHRumors have sparked that possibly Nicolas Ghesquière will take the reigns at Louis Vuitton. Personally, I believe there would be no greater choice. Louis Vuitton is diving into an even higher level of luxury goods, so, from Nicolas’s past at Balenciaga, there would be no better choice to create that image.

Prada: SS 2014

There is always a statement to be made by Miuccia Prada. Sometimes socio-political references, sometimes an underlying metaphysical statement is to be had. Maybe many of us look into more than what is there, but Prada is a show that always has substance, no? Often times innately ugly, many times not beautifully perceived to the eye right away, there is a beauty to Miuccia’s designs that are genius. Various ideas are blended into Ms. Prada’s SS 2014 show.

Murals are at the forefront of focus. Possibly not so underlying, though, is Miuccia forcing her designs to represent a sort of feminine quality: I am woman, hear me roar.

 There are bras that have no functionality at all on the exterior of coats to bejewelled garments mixed with murals of women. Reference after reference, we would say that it is all very blatant and design of high-intelligence.

Last but not least, Grace Mahary walked. Referential design be damned, Grace is THE bad bitch on the runway.

MBFW

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Karlie Kloss being the Queen of fashion week.

New York Fashion Week is THE fashion week in America, and I was lucky enough to work and attend for the third season in a row. I work every show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center and am fortunate enough to view most of those shows. In recent seasons it has become more of a spectacle than it has been in the past. You will no be walking around and notice the absurd amounts of street style bloggers and photographers wanting to snap your photo and along with them: the street style stars. More on that topic later.

Anyway, here are a few from my busy week to prove that I was there. I have more, but they’re really unnecessary to post.

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Joan and Me

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Joan Smalls and Me

Oh! did I mention my encounter with Queen Joan Smalls? She was absolutely gorgeous this day in leather and sheer fabric with red lips, while I, a shaky wee-lad, was dressed in Zara. She was polite and told me it was a pleasure meeting me after asking for my name.

Complete adoration for Miss Smalls. Joan and Me. Sounds like a made for Lifetime television movie event.

P.S. Sorry for the slouchy look. A blogger isn’t always their best when around the gods.

Louis Vuitton F/W 2011

Bow down to excellence. Kate is iconic in every sense of the word. She absolutely stole the show. In light of the clothes,  I’m in love. Marc presented pencil skirt silhouettes, beautiful, voluminous furs, wellies with an added platform and heel, and added kink and fetish with materials and in the details, e.g. the adorable masks. Yet, all of this had a disciplined austerity about it all. Really magnificent.

Back to Kate, though. Such incredible presence. She looked wonderful and the cigarette smoking wonder was the most super of all of the supers that walked, including Naomi Campbell. It was really a superb casting.

Check it out.

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Milan: Gucci Fall 2011

Let me get this out immediately: Who styled Gucci’s show? What in the living hell was Frida Giannini thinking? Frida cited  Angelica Huston, photographed by Bob Richardson, and Florence Welch of Florence + the Machine were here inspirations for this 70s collection of vibrant furs that would give Joseph and his amazing technicolor dreamcoat jealousy, stuffy styling, and flowing chiffon. This was Gucci’s 90th anniversary show and you’d think she’d flow and outdo last season’s jewel-toned and tribal wear. Negative.

Some pieces could really work separately, and at times I feel the styling sucked the soul out of pieces, but the coat Alana strutted in appeared as if she had stuffed her shaggy dog inside and it was just bursting to be free and prance away from this travesty. And Linnea’s purple jacket over that yellow fur number, I can quote a fellow user on Fashin saying, “so Big Bird sneaking out of Sesame Street to Atlantic City for the weekend chic.” If The Muppets and Sesame Street turned into flamboyant pimps, I’d say we hit the target. It pains me. The culottes paired with the leather, knee-high boots was what did it in for me. I couldn’t breathe just looking at that stuffy styling.

Now here is what I truly enjoyed. The flowing gowns is what saved the show. From Karmen’s luscious, red gown, Abbey’s sheer yellow, to the rest of the sheer, flowing floor-length pieces displayed pure elegance that counterbalanced the hard and exotic looks that came before them. Frida did herself a disservice and added the silk florals to the models. Some of them were pretty and added to the effect, luckily most were shrugs and other removable pieces of silk floral that will hopefully not distract from the beautiful pieces later.

And after all of this, there is something that keeps screaming in my brain that I really like this. Maybe it’s insanity and I’m developing schizophrenia. Only time will tell.

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Galliano S/S 2011

I placed John Galliano’s show in the back of my mind when I waited for my coveted shows: the Pirate hooker Balmain, Lanvin, Miu Miu, etc. His work for Dior isn’t always my favorite, beautiful yes, but not always my favorite. Galliano never shies away from drama; let’s face it. This is the man who presented this beautiful haute couture show in 2004. Galliano is always submersed in this dreamworld of inspiration.

Well, as I can never resist a little drama, Galliano scored a win in my book. He had an odd inspiration from Maria Lani, a woman who claimed to be an actress and jumped into the Paris art scene in the twenties. She convinced some 50 artists such as Matisse and Cocteau to paint her portrait. This vision of his resulted in a colorful and theatrical show.

I ask you this: what’s there not to love when a drunken stagger is encouraged?

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